broken brake line

[el_torpedo]

Installing ss brake hoses:
so yes, while loosening the nut where the brake line attaches to the hose, the end of the brake line snapped off.
Now all the fluid is leaking out and I can't crimp it tight enough to stop it.

[rmicroys]

There's no way you'll be able to crimp that tight enough. You need to get a new line ASAP. Depending on which one it was on the car, praying that it was your LF line (probably the shortest) then you may just be able to get a ready to go one from Canadian Tire and fix it. They make them in both inverted flare and bubble flare (for us Euro VW types) in various ready to go lengths. Borrow a brake line bender and you're off... or you'll need some bulk hose, fittings, bender and the correct brake line flaring tool if you want to fix that today. If it's a VW, I have most of what you need. Only problem is that you'll need to make a trip to Manotick to get the stuff...

[John Powell]

Been there, done that ... several times. I now wire-brush the fittings to get off any loose rust, and then soak them in Krown penetrating oil for a few days. I then try to loosen them without using too much elbow grease, and if that doesn't work (or if I'm in a hurry), I then try a small amount of heat (remembering to shield any burnables) and that doesn't work, nothing will. Oh yeah, I always use a very light coating of anti-freeze on the new fittings and the end of the hard line, making sure to keep the ends clean.

[el_torpedo]

There's no way you'll be able to crimp that tight enough. You need to get a new line ASAP. Depending on which one it was on the car, praying that it was your LF line (probably the shortest) then you may just be able to get a ready to go one from Canadian Tire and fix it. They make them in both inverted flare and bubble flare (for us Euro VW types) in various ready to go lengths. Borrow a brake line bender and you're off... or you'll need some bulk hose, fittings, bender and the correct brake line flaring tool if you want to fix that today. If it's a VW, I have most of what you need. Only problem is that you'll need to make a trip to Manotick to get the stuff...

Thanks, it's a MINI though.
actually managed to plug the tube end with epoxy putty. I'm surprized it worked.
It's the right rear line. Replacing it myself is a little beyond me, so we'll be towed to Ralf on Monday for a new brake line install.

[rmicroys]

It's the right rear line. Replacing it myself is a little beyond me, so we'll be towed to Ralf on Monday for a new brake line install.

Suckage. That's the longest line on the car. Never fails. The Mini probably uses bubble flares, I have the bender and the brake line flare tool for bubble flares.

Ralph will take good care of you no doubt. Sucks - that's a pile of work to replace the whole line. Though you could opt to cut the line, add a flare and a union if one wants to just replace a small section - which would be a whole lot faster and easier.

[el_torpedo]

splice the line - brilliant, I didn't think of that! If there's enough room to do it, it can't hurt to try since the line would have been replaced anyway. Also it's another excuse to buy more tools, which I like doing.
I'm not sure if there is enough brake line left that's accessible, but we'll see in the morning.
Thanks for the suggestion!

Pete

[rmicroys]

splice the line - brilliant, I didn't think of that! If there's enough room to do it, it can't hurt to try since the line would have been replaced anyway. Also it's another excuse to buy more tools, which I like doing.
I'm not sure if there is enough brake line left that's accessible, but we'll see in the morning.
Thanks for the suggestion!

Pete

Not enough line left? Huh? It goes from the front to the rear... there's got to be a place to cut it, stick a fitting on, and flare it under the car somewhere. Then with a union, and a new pre-fabricated length then bend that up to the correct shape and connect it all up. I'm not sure how you would think there wouldn't be enough line to work it on with.

[el_torpedo]

It's not visible underneath the car, it dissapears a few inches from the wheel well. I can't really get under there, since I'm using jackstands on a gravel driveway.
It looks like there is enough to work with through the wheel well, so I'm giving it a go.

here it is: Top left corner is where it ataches to the brake hose. You can see the white glob where I sealed it with epoxy putty (I cut off an inch or so where I had tried to crimp it). The line continues off to the right and is completely hidden, as far as I can see anyway.

brake line 3 by el torpedo, on Flickr

[CulRidr]

In case you want some cheap brake line, I have some leftover from a previous brake replacement that I'd be willing to let go for cheap. I have a 25ft roll (unflared) that I never used and lost the receipt for at Napa (and therefore never returned), as well as 2x 5ft flared lines with the fittings.
Let me know if that helps (I don't have the flare tool though I have the bender) and we can get in touch.

[terrydale]

Welcome to the wonderful world of cars engineered by people who never have to actually fix them!

[John Powell]

Welcome to the wonderful world of cars engineered by people who never have to actually fix them!

Ain't that true. As for splicing in an extension to replace the broken bit, just keep in mind that the fittings at the splice are another potential leak point. Not that the spliced in extension is a bad idea, it's just something to consider.

And as another thought, from your photo the line up to the section that broke off seems to be in good shape. If the section that broke off is only an inch or two long, you could try playing around with the line a bit (re-configuring the bend, and so on) so that the end will reach the end of the hose, or, how about looking for a longer hose which will connect to the current end of the brake line.

[rmicroys]

A splice is fine. Just think how many connections a car with ABS and a rear bias valve has? One extra union won't hurt anything - and if the fix can be done easily enough, then the owner can then maybe bide his time to replace the entire line - which looks like for the most part is a big job. So, I say whatever gets you rolling for the short term. It's certainly safe if done properly.

[TyroDriver]

Oh yeah, I always use a very light coating of anti-freeze on the new fittings and the end of the hard line, making sure to keep the ends clean.

I am not trying to drag up an old post, but I am in the middle of replacing almost all the brake lines on my car and came across this tip.

I am new to this, so could you explain the anti-freeze function to me? Does it basically work as a corrosion inhibitor on the fittings/threads? If so, does it have the staying power to not run off or get washed off in the rain?

Wait, it just occurred to me to clarify. By anti-freeze, you are referring to coolant, right?

A long time ago someone once told me that after you install a new steel line it is a good idea to put a very light coating of grease (applied by hand) over the line and fittings. On initial impression, this seems like a good idea. Is this something that other people do?

Thanks.

[GoesFilled]

I would venture to guess that John's computer auto-corrected *anti-seize* to anti-freeze.

[TyroDriver]

I would venture to guess that John's computer auto-corrected *anti-seize* to anti-freeze.

That would make a lot more sense. Just as long as the computer has not become self aware!

Thanks.

[John Powell]

I would venture to guess that John's computer auto-corrected *anti-seize* to anti-freeze.

Or it may be an Old Fart's brain fade. Let's see, then: anti-freeze, anti-seize.

OK, definitely brain fade.