Rust Proofing

[Ian]

I'm wondering if it's worth rust proofing a 3 year old car, or is it too late? It's driven year round so it's already seen several winters. It's a Mazda, so it's a matter of when not if it rusts.

If so, any suggestions? I'd prefer not to drill holes if possible. I assume I'd have to park on the street for awhile to avoid all sorts of crap on my garage floor.

[terrydale]

Rust, or corrosion, or electrolytic action is enabled by exposure to water and air. Stop that exposure by placing a barrier between the metal and the air - such as oil or rustproofing - and the corrosion is effectively stopped. Whatever damage there already is will not be undone but further damage is effectively halted.

The worst rust damage occurs from within and also from those areas that are not allowed to dry out thoroughly after becoming damp from water or condensation. The only way to access those hidden areas is to drill access holes and introduce the rustproofing product directly into contact with the metal in those hidden areas. Look at rocker panels. They rot from within not from the outside. Spraying them from the outside is not going to be effective. Spraying them from the inside after drilling a small hole to allow for that? Definitely going to get much better results. For those who are concerned about drilling holes, the alternative is to let that area rust - not hard to make the choice. The holes are surrounded by rustproofing product - you really think that drilled hole is going to be a rust-prone area??

Corrosion Free actually talks about getting the vehicle sprayed no later than 3 years after putting the unit on the road. Regardless and bottom line, rustproofing will tend to hold the rust at the point its at right now.

The training for almost every rustproofing product requires the installer to spray enough product to cover the surface. Inevitably, either the customer or the installer usually subscribe to the 'If it isn't dripping, there isn't enough on it' theory which leads to excessive use of the product per vehicle and dripping for days afterward. The guideline is that one barrel of product can cover about 50 standard sized vehicles. Less vehicles per barrel means too much product has been used (or there were a lot of trucks and large SUV's put through that week).If properly applied, there should be virtually no dripping after application.

[Ian]

Thanks for the info Terry!

I guess my fear of drilling holes comes from a family car we had growing up. The car was totally rust free except for where they drilled holes to do the rust proofing. It was under factory warranty but the dealer wouldn't cover it because it was rusting at non-factory holes. I'm guessing that A) the job was done incorrectly, or B) the product has improved in the last twenty years? Possibly both?

[terrydale]

Ian, I too have seen rust at the access holes drilled for the rustproofing wand. That would usually translate to an application problem for the simple reason that there simply can't be rust where there is rustproof product seprating the metal from the air. My old 1980 Buick - whcih I still have BTW - was originally rustproofed way back when and I don't know how many times after. The plugs are in the holes and there is no rust whatsoever around those areas. The rust is, however, in those areas where the rustproofing didn't get to. Again, an original faulty application issue.

These days, every credible company such as Corrosion Free, Ziebart, Krown, whatever have application guides that point out to the Installer exactly where the potential trouble spots are - based on the hidden structure behind the pretty exterior sheet metal. Usually there is some kind of internal brace or reinforcement that stops the rustproofing from getting around and behind it. Those quality companies research that and specify exactly where holes must be drilled in order to get the product behind those barriers to where it needs to be.

One example is my wife's 2000 Chev Tracker. You are hard pressed to find one of that age - or even newer - that doesn't have rotten rocker panels because there are huge dirt and water traps behind the front wheels that allow moisture in but not out. My Tracker has been Krowned since the first year and every year thereafter and is as solid as a rock everywhere. Now you might well ask 'Why in the world are you saving a Chevy Tracker?' but that is my issue to deal with here at home - just listen to the message!!

[luker]

Ian, I had exactly the same thing happen on our Corolla. The ONLY rust spots were around the holes drilled in the door sill and plugged with plastic caps.

I stopped rust proofing that car a few years before selling and installing one of the electronic gizmos from CTC. That appeared to stop the progression of rusting. Also noticed that the brake rotors did not build up rust as quickly after install.

Also Nissan now only offers the electronic gizmo when selling their paint and body protection packages at the dealership. That surprised me when I friend bought his new 2012 Pathfinder.

YMMV

[terrydale]

If the holes are drilled with a worn out stepped style bit, then the paint is chipped and the moisture gets in underneath causing the described rust. A sharp bit cuts a clean hole that doesn't lift the paint at its edges.