Cordless Impact Wrench

[inverted]

What are the experienced guys using? I've been researching for hours but can't seem to figure out what I need. I tend to be against buying cheap disposable crap.

I picked up the previous model Mastercraft Maximum 14.4V (1.7Ah) Ni-Cd yesterday on clearance for $145+tax, reg $279. I understand that with CTC you should wait for sales for just about everything especially mastercraft, this was the last unit and I didn't want to miss out (knowing I have 90 days to decide whether or not to keep it of course). It's light and compact but many say it doesn't have enough torque to crack the lugs and that NiCd is pure garbage. Should I be manually cracking the lugs anyway? I need all new lugs soon because the POS chrome plated ones are effed up. I use a torque wrench for final tightening, which reminds me, I need to figure out how much to torque to use for AutoX...

Just looking to facilitate wheel changes without having to replace a dud tool in 6 months.

Massena NY is just across the US border and has Sears, Lowe's, Home Depot and many autoparts stores so my options are good.

So... many... questions............

[condor888000]

The weak point with that one seems to be the batteries. I bought mine in 2009, and one battery failed in 2011. The other's still going fine. But then again I ended up running them into the ground and not recharging them for a while so that may have done some damage as well. It only has enough juice to crack the lugs when it's just been taken off the charger. I generally quickly turn them a 1/4 turn with a breaker bar and then use the gun to zip them off once the cars in the air.

It's a pretty decent tool for the price.

[inverted]

Thanks. I've heard about battery failure as well, usually right after the warranty expires.

If I don't really need the torque maybe I will also just 'zip' them off/on when loose to save time and effort... I wonder how much better a Li-Ion battery would hold up over the years for an occassional use tool. I'm going to keep a close eye out for sales.

The Hitachi 18v has me interested if I can find one for a decent price... It's one of the lightest on the market according to this http://www.caranddriver.com/features/im ... ed-gearbox

[sfong]

If you're going to manually break and torque down the lug nuts, you can just use a normal cordless drill. If you have one already, don't have to buy any additional tools.

[Alf]

I bought a 18v one at princess auto few months ago. It's MUCH better vs the CT one(which I did replace).

[gregor]

yah PA. I have an older version of this one. Check out the stats. You'll never need a breaker bar. Had mine for 4 or 5 years.

Battery always lasts longer than I need it for.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8384430/More-Than-18V/24V-Impact-Wrench

Type 1/2 in. dr 24V cordless
Max. Torque 410ft-lb

[gchislett]

I have the mastercraft 18 V that I bought about 3 yrs ago. Comes with 2 batteries and each one now just barely will take off 4 wheels if fully charged. worked great for the first 3 years, but this spring, it seems to have reached the end of its useful life.

At least with the PA, Power Fist stuff, you simply bring it back in and they'll replace it, no questions asked.

[Chris.B]

All depends on how much you want to spend. I just bought the Milwaukee 18v impact and it's awesome. It was cheap because I just bought the bare tool (all my other tools are milwaukee, so i already have the batteries) It can remove 450 lbs so it doesnt hesitate removing lug nuts. But like any other tool, the batteries are the weekest point. It only works at full capacity when the battery is full. With Battery and charger, it's a little pricey if that's all you need it for though:

http://www.blackrocktools.com/shop-by-b ... 63-22.html

[schmoo]

I love my CT 14.4v bought on sale. Yeah, more power would be nice, but at the price, it's damn good for the "haul to the event kit". It will remove my lugs without a manual breaking.

My batteries are still fine, but I tend to be a bit anal about taking care of stuff like that.

[inverted]

Wow, thanks guys!

That Princess Auto/Powerfist unit looks great except for the 16lb weight I'll see if I can check it out in store, website could be wrong.

I'm on the look out for some chrome Toyota OEM mag lugs as well. At least 2 of mine are badly mangled, pieces of crap they are. I might be better to use a breaker bar if I can't find a good aftermarket lug that can take the abuse. My lugs are mag-style, they seed flat with a built-in washer. Vendor websites haven't been helpful. Dunno, at least I have time.

[gregor]

haha ya it's heavy. Weight is a sign of reliability.

[condor888000]

Another reason I like the 14.4 Mastercraft, it's size. Makes it REALLY easy to use when working in tight spaces. I reach for it before I reach for a ratchet.

[dbg]

I just use a big-ass torque wrench to break it, and then wind them out the rest of the way with my fingers. Reverse to reinstall. Doesn't take long... is an electric wrench really worth the trouble?

[el_torpedo]

I just use a big-ass torque wrench to break it, and then wind them out the rest of the way with my fingers. Reverse to reinstall. Doesn't take long... is an electric wrench really worth the trouble?

Once you go electric, you never go back.
Hey, there's irony in here somewhere.

[Chris.B]

Yea it's one of those tools that once you have it, you think "how have I ever worked without this"

[sfong]

My S2000 is a street car too, so over the year I'd swap tires around 30 times for track days and autocross. Saving some hassle is definitely worth it. Good racing jack, breaker bar, cordless drill and torque wrench gets a tire swap done about 20 minutes.

[gregor]

I pity those still using a breaker bar.

[inverted]

Ok so I found a tool supplier in Limoges with pretty amazing prices.

Here's what I'm looking at:

http://www.jccayer.com/product.php?productid=100
Milwaukee Li-Ion 183ft-lbs $289
Pin Detent bits
5-3/4" long
4.1lbs total weight

or $40 more for the one Chris recommended:

http://www.jccayer.com/product.php?productid=89
Milwaukee Li-Ion 450lt-lbs $329
Friction Ring bits
8-7/8" long
6.7lbs weight

I'm leaning toward the big guy...

[Robin2]

i had one for years from PA.... till it fried.... brought it back and got refunded...

then simply bought a black / decker drill and drill adapter
like this
http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/media/c ... ce-set.jpg

and good breaker and saved good chunk of change.

[luker]

Same here, I use a breaker bar to get the nuts loose then a cordless drill to remove and re-install. Followed by torque wrench to finish off.

Sum total of $5 investment to get the socket adapter for the drill. Everything else I already owned.

[dbg]

My S2000 is a street car too, so over the year I'd swap tires around 30 times for track days and autocross. Saving some hassle is definitely worth it. Good racing jack, breaker bar, cordless drill and torque wrench gets a tire swap done about 20 minutes.

Okay, that would definitely be faster. It's taking me about twice as long.

The S2000 is now my track-only car (and will finally be ready on Monday!), so I won't be switching tires on it.

I do expect I'll bring my Tesla to autocross a few times, though, and I do need to swap tires for that. Last year I ran it on my street tires (T1R); I tried out A048's on it recently and it was like a completely different car.

So it's a nice-to-have... mainly a question of how lazy I am.

[schmoo]

I find it most useful for putting wheels back on. The gun let's you get some good torque on them without putting the wheels on the ground or having to keep them from spinning. Most of the time, I hit 'em with the gun, set it down and another quarter turn with the torque wrench gets me to the target torque.

[inverted]

So the amount of money spent on gear is a function of laziness and comfort...



I'm already driving around 1.5hrs each way in a compact wagon. Put me in the lazy camp!

Edit: Friggin' Toyota OEM mag lugs are garbage!! The chrome caps are so bad, they are supposed to be 13/16th's hex but the caps are swollen so badly there is no way I will get the socket to fit properly without force. Can't seem to find decent aftermarket replacements except some places which want $4 a pop for OEM replacement!!! I bought 2 just because that's the minimum I HAVE to replace right now, the sockets fit those just fine. They are M12 1.5 flat seeding mag lugs with built-in washers. Frustrating

[schmoo]

What normally happens is shops use the 21mm impact socket on the 13/16" lugs, deforming them and making them too large for the 13/16" socket. Even dealerships do this.

[eyemaster]

Don't use a drill, you'll break the gears in no time. That's why I went to an impact, the CTC 14.4 was the only one I was willing to put money on because it was so cheap. I break the lugs with a breaker bar, and I torque with a torque wrench. Always start the thread by hand, not the impact. It should last you a few years, mine is on it's 3rd year, I don't know when it will fail, but I've used it for more than just car related stuff, such as 4 inch screws into wood and other construction projects (drilling and screwing).

I broke 3 drills. I think it's the impact of suddenly stopping when the lug nut is tight. I opened up 2 of them to find the metal gears inside broken to pieces.

The Miata was torqued at 75ft/lbs. The Corvette is at 95ft/lbs. The corvette has the capped lug nuts which are not impact friendly, but I'm not going to cry over lug nuts.